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Post by Admin on Jul 31, 2013 13:14:42 GMT -5
How do you handle the strings at the tuners? Just let them all hang out or like this?
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Post by earleg on Aug 4, 2013 16:39:11 GMT -5
I do that wrap around lock on same type tuner then bend the excess end down and clip ~ 1/4 - 1/2". Fender vintage Kluson type with the top hole are a lot easier to install for me.
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Post by Admin on Aug 5, 2013 9:41:00 GMT -5
I do that wrap around lock on same type tuner then bend the excess end down and clip ~ 1/4 - 1/2". Fender vintage Kluson type with the top hole are a lot easier to install for me. I agree...but I don't take the time to clip the excess. Lazy I guess.
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Post by slapjaw on Aug 6, 2013 7:03:18 GMT -5
When I restring. I remove all at the same time. Clean the fret board, lube the nut. Install the strings and clip.
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Post by earleg on Aug 8, 2013 22:34:38 GMT -5
I check these here and there. Always clean the frets, board, put bit lube on nut slots. If rosewood wipe a bit of refined Linseed oil as needed.
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Post by earleg on Aug 10, 2013 17:40:35 GMT -5
Forgot to mention put a little oil or WD on threaded bridge parts now and then. Likewise a drop or 2 in Kluson and similar tuners that have an oil hole. Best to do tuners when strings are off.
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Post by Admin on Aug 10, 2013 21:34:51 GMT -5
That remids me. Do you remove all of the old strings and then replace them with new ones or do you replace them one at a time? I've heard luthiers debate this question for days. Some contend that completely removing all tension will let the neck warp and twist while others say not. I've always removed all strings before installing new ones and I've never noticed a problem. I am OCB about the order I put the new ones on though. I always install the high e string first -loosely....then the b, g, d, a e and then tune.
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Post by earleg on Aug 11, 2013 22:19:03 GMT -5
All at once. I loosen the old ones in increments not that it might really matter. On new ones just put enough tension to hold in place until all are on then tune up, do a few 12th fret string pulls, re-tune until tuning is stable. The pulls also help keep strings from binding in the nut slots.
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Post by earleg on Aug 12, 2013 19:16:44 GMT -5
Jim, The heavier the string the less the pulls! For example .010 - .046" strings usually take 3 12th fret pulls with re-tune with each pull. 2 or 3 fingers at 12th fret and light pull ~ 1/4 to 1/2" upward gets it. Once the re-tune doesn't have any note flats then all are set in. Usually a tiny bit of lube prior on nut slots helps. I learned this many years back from the Grateful Dead's guitar tech. Saved me a lot of frustration with new string installs. Glad to share with "string folks"!
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jaso
New Artist
Posts: 3
Musican: Blues Writer
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Post by jaso on Dec 14, 2013 21:42:56 GMT -5
During the 20 years I was a staff editor for Guitar Player magazine, I heard a lot of advice about the best way to change strings. I found that the most useful is that it's best to replace all the strings one at a time, tuning each one to pitch. Once you have them all on and the guitar tuned up, put the guitar away for 24 hours. When that day has passed, re-tune the guitar to concert pitch. With this method, I've found that the strings stay in tune much better and last longer. I originally heard about this from Dan Crary, and it really made a difference in how the strings perform. I also follow Eric Johnson's advice to first wind the string one time above where the string comes through the tuning post hole and then do the rest of the winds below where the string comes through the post. This helps to lock the string.
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